Embroidered patches are everywhere. And they are not something you think a lot about until you need one or have your attention called to them — but they are everywhere. From Girl Scouts to rock bands and everything in between, patches are often part of uniforms and fanwear.

Custom embroiderers can turn to patches to tap into various market niches. Uniforms for police, fire and rescue workers require patches, and usually more than one per uniform. Patches often define a person's position within the ranks of various organizations, or signify some significant achievement he has accomplished.

And various clubs and organizations, like scouting programs, require that patches be earned to advance to different levels and to signify degrees of accomplishment.

Of course embroidered patches are not limited to official functions within organizations. Patches often are used as part of fanwear, or spiritwear, that associates an individual with a group such as a rock band, a high school sports program, a custom motorcycle shop or a non-profit charity.

I recall both my son and daughter hunting through stores for patches of their favorite rock bands to be proudly displayed on their school backpacks. In retro stores that sell items from the 1960s, you find patches that harken back to that colorful era. The patch with the peace symbol stands out most in my mind.

The point of looking at different areas where you find patches is to get your creative juices going and to motivate you to approach the appropriate markets. A few sales calls to government agencies, clubs, schools, local organizations and companies will prove profitable for your embroidery business. Joining the local Chamber of Commerce will put you in an environment to network with a lot of companies and organizations that need your services.

You can market yourself through a simple Web site, business cards and by showcasing samples of patches you have embroidered. You would be surprised how many people will buy patches once they see your work proudly displayed in your store or shop. But before you make that patch sale, read on to understand all the different aspects of patches.

NARROWING CHOICES

There are many shapes, sizes and techniques for creating patches. The process reminds me of customers who come in asking for embroidery on a cap. When they realize all the different styles and types of caps we carry, they suddenly have something more to think about.

The same happens with patches. There are numerous choices, including custom cuts and shapes, infinite combinations of colors, iron-on or sew-on construction, and the list continues.

Communicating these choices to the customer is essential when taking a patch order. Qualifying and finding out what a customer needs can make the order a success. For example, you would not want to sell a sew-on style patch for a garment or a place on a particular garment where it is difficult, if not impossible, to sew. This calls for an iron-on patch, commonly referred to as a heat seal patch.

TECHNIQUE

One of the most frequently asked questions is about the heat seal vs. the sew-on patch. Let's discuss both.

Heat seal patches have an adhesive backing that is put on after the patch has been embroidered. Don't create problems for yourself by applying the adhesive before you sew the patch (more on this later).

You will be able to tell which is which due to the shiny effect the coating will give it. The heat seal material is a clear slick coating of glue that adheres the patch to the fabric when heat and pressure are applied. Pressure is the key to getting good adherence.

Some embroiderers use a hand iron, but note that this method gives you only as much pressure as you have in the strength in your arm. Use a heat press. It will give you a better "set" patch.

SEW-ON STUFF

Sew-on patches, in my opinion, stay on longer and are better secured to the garment. However, you may not be able to get to the area on the garment where you want the patch to be sewn. So think ahead in terms of patch placement before committing to (or recommending) sew-on patches.

Pre-made patches are an easy way to go and they look very professional. Pre-made patches are blank and come in many shapes and sizes. You can even order custom sizes from vendors who deal in blank patches. Note that custom orders will take longer to get.

Some vendors require a minimum order, so be aware of that as you price the job for your customer. If you don't currently have a blank patch source, you can find one at www.GarmentGuide.com or face-to-face in the aisles of an Imprinted Sportswear Show.

WORKING WITH BLANKS

Place your blank patch on a scanner and capture an image of the exact size and shape of its outline to use in your digitizing software. Once you have that scanned image, you will need to digitize an outline stitch. This will be your placement line. Be precise in digitizing this, since the placement line is most critical. If you have ever done appliqué, you will see the similarity between patches and appliqué.

Once you have the outline set, you will need a tack-down stitch. I prefer a zigzag tack-down to a straight stitch because a zigzag eliminates the possibility of shifting (Figure 1).

Once you have these two steps done, you are ready to merge the design with them for one complete design before actually stitching the patch. Before merging, make sure the design is the right size for the patch (Figure 2). Allow for the satin stitch around the patch when determining design size.

Since you are using pre-made patches, when you are ready to stitch, you will need to use adhesive backing, hydro-stick, or tear away backing with spray adhesive. This way, you only have to sew the outline first for placement, then place your patch on the adhesive backing. With pre-made patches you do not have a large piece of fabric to hoop, so adhesive in some form is necessary to hold it in place.

With pre-made patches, you will need to determine whether to order them already heat sealed. If you go with the heat seal before the design is sewn on, you will encounter "waving" or "stretching" of the patch. The glue causes this. You can adjust densities and underlay, but you will not get the same flat sewing that you would if you did non-adhesive patches and then added the adhesive after they were sewn.

ON YOUR OWN

Making your own patches from scratch is a bit more time consuming. Use the same process as you did for the pre-made patches, except that when you add the tack-down stitch, also add a satin stitch for the border. Keep in mind that once the satin stitch is sewn, you will need to cut away the fabric once the patch is finished, being careful to trim close, but not cut the satin stitch threads.

If you are unsure about fabric types for patches, try trigger cloth, tackle twill and heavy gabardine. Make sure the fabric is stable and that you use a medium to heavyweight backing to stabilize the fabric.

WORKING WITH CONTRACTORS

When you get into the more difficult patch jobs that include custom shapes, you might want to look to companies specializing in patches. They will have the laser cutters, methods and technology for the process.

Depending on the size of the order, they may waive the setup fee. If you have been turning down patch business, re-think the business end of it. Patches can be a very lucrative addition to your direct embroidery business. By contracting your patches, you might find higher profit margins.

Keep in mind that most patch companies need about a six- to eight-week turnaround time. Forewarn your customer and keep him informed if there are further delays. For the smaller jobs, with the techniques described earlier, you should be able to produce them yourself.

Once the patches are completed, you will have customers who want you to sew them on garments. If you have the capabilities, then this is another area on which you can capitalize. Each service that you offer keeps that customer with you instead of someone else. Sewing on patches can either be done with a regular sewing machine, or you can set it up for your embroidery machine. Again, you will use the appliqué technique of the outline or placement stitch and the tack-down zigzag stitch. For sewing on patches, use a more open density for the tack-down. You do not want to cover the satin border with a dense satin tack-down. You need just enough density to secure it to the item.

Turning down orders can be difficult, so before you do, make sure you have checked around for sources that can help you. Remember, once you decline an order, you have limited yourself to potential income. Being a middleman sometimes has its advantages, otherwise use and expand your patch techniques for added income and opportunities for your company.